{ A coup in Bamako - this is history!!! }

Nothing much to report on around here...
Oh...there was a military coup last Wednesday!

No big deal.
Wait...a COUP? Is that what I said?

(In case you don't know, a coup is an overthrow - it's a French word).
If you haven't heard by now about the military coup in Bamako, Mali, you probably need to start looking at your RSS feeds (or setting them up) and reading the news...

It's a pretty big deal.

Coup d'état: a term I learned and studied over and over in school, particularly in my European History class as we studied the French. Never did I imagine that I would live amidst one. Never did I imagine hearing gunshots through the streets as the military rushed to take control of the government.

Meanwhile, I'm stuck between overwhelmingly excitement to be here and experience history in the making, and then an anxious feeling to get out of Mali as fast as I can, just in case. I like to take precautions. For the record, however, I have felt 100% safe at all times and we have so many people here that are watching out for us and put our safety above their own. Thank you, Marissa and Yeah, you have been so good to Kyle and I during our time here - I think of you as my own family. Love you guys!

Sorry, this post is a little late in the coming but I'm getting there! 

I've been back and forth the last few days trying to ensure my safety...

Long story short 
(let's see if that's possible) - 

I was downtown Bamako Wednesday afternoon, March 21, when I heard news of the military instability and potential coup. We headed home, unconcerned, but little did we know what would happen in the coming hours...it's crazy how things can change so quickly.
Here's what happened: 
On Wednesday morning, Malian military troops at their base camp in Kati (just outside of Bamako), were visited by a new Defense Minister. They quickly became upset because they have not received enough weapons, or food, to match the power and control of the nomadic Tuareg rebels in the North. Because of this situation, there are about 180,000 Malian refugees displaced and without food, shelter, and other basic needs. Many have died due to the situation in the north as well.
After the unfriendly visit of the Defense Minister, the military quickly seized the military base and then marched to the presidential palace in Bamako. They looted the place and riddled the cars and building with bullets. The coup was very spontaneous and not very well-planned, in my opinion. For a while, the whereabouts of President Amadou Toumani Touré (ATT) were unknown but they are now saying they have him and he is safe. Wednesday afternoon, Yeah was actually downtown finishing a meeting when he saw the military, led by Captain Amadou Aya Sanogo, surround the national TV station, ORTM. They shot into the air. Soon after, TV and radio stations were shut down and they took control. The military quickly surrounded the central parts of Bamako, and later the neighboring areas of Bamako as well, making it difficult to go anywhere. They quickly captured several other high-ranking government officials, looted their homes and other government buildings, as well as random local offices. All throughout the evening and throughout the next 2 days, we could hear residential gunfire as the military shot their guns in the air, making their presence known.

Soldiers block access to roads in Bamako

The looting of a local insurance company - it made me think of my mom and I thought of how awful it would be if her business was looted!

Sanogo (in green cap on middle right), leader of the military, giving commands to the other militants

Outrageous lines at the gas pumps - most of the gas stations are completely empty

Malians woke up Thursday morning, ready to go about their day as usual, not having heard the broadcast on national TV earlier that morning, only to find military blocking the streets and in control of Bamako.

Photos courtesy of The Guardian

At 4:00 am on Thursday morning, the military troops, under the name of National Committee for the Reestablishment of Democracy and the Restoration of the State, or CNRDR, came on ORTM to explain their intentions. They advised that temporary military rule was in place and issued a military curfew between 6:00 am and 6:00 pm (it's all day, every day for American citizens...). At 11:00 am, they issued another statement to reaffirm their intentions and indicated that a temporary government would be put in place on March 27. As they took control, all airports and borders were shut down.  Throughout the last few days, during "down" time, they have been playing movies on national TV - in Bambara (the national language), when everything is usually in French. On Friday evening, the soldiers were ordered to stop shooting and return to their bases. Things have been much more quite since then. One thing that remains promising, noone has been harmed. Saturday, Sanogo appeared on TV to ask that all of the looters return what they have taken. He condemned the military, and other civilians involved, for their actions.

For days, there was talk of a counter-coup by the supporters of the President. Some even claimed that  the loyalists had won and Sanogo was injured, but on Friday night, we saw the Red Berets (like President Obama's Secret Service) on TV with Sanogo and the military saying that they supported the military and the coup.  Was this legit? Eh, I don't know. We still can't be sure.

Right now, as the borders remain closed and the airport shutdown, not only can we not leave, but nothing can get in - that means no fuel or food and there are shortages all over the city. Fuel has risen from 500 CFA per litre a week ago to over 2000 CFA per litre today - crazy!
 Mali has also been suspended from the African Union, France and the EU have suspended all aid and the US has threatened to cut off all aid to Mali.
 Another thing that is disconcerting is the advance of the MNLA leaders and the Tuareg rebels in the north. Since Wednesday, they have since captured two more towns. They are taking advantage of the lack of government at this time. They are dangerous.

Today, 4 days after the initial events of the coup, things seem very calm and stable in Bamako. People are going about with their lives, and I even heard rumors of a local wedding - a military coup certainly can't stop a bride on her wedding day, eh? But, large stores are still closed and people are still hesitant to play outside on the soccer fields.

One of the best, most accurate, analysis articles I have read:
Mayhem in Mali: Implications of the Military Coup in Bamako

Why did they remove the president from power? Elections were only a month away...Why didn't they simply protest to be sure that elections would be held on April 29, as planned? (There had been talk of postponing the elections until July so the president could make some constitutional changes)...It was much too spontaneous. Sanogo claims that he does not want leadership and will hand everything over to the temporary government once it is in place. How are they going to setup this temporary government? They are saying they will involve the leadership and opinions of every political parties and create a temporary, unified government. Will that work? I am concerned that there will be tension between the loyalists of ATT and the other political parties. Everyone will want to do it their way - the "right" way! Right now, there is talk of postponing the presidential elections by 6 months to a year - what?! That's a long time! It will be interesting to see how things play out here in Mali.

I am discouraged to see the "fall of democracy" in Mali, after 20 years of hard work and stability. It is almost as if the time tables have turned and we are back to 1991. 
But I have high hopes for the future of Mali.

I'm not going to lie, it has been pretty cool to see the military on TV, to see and hear everything unfold in Bamako. This is historic. Well, pretty cool, aside from the residential gunfire that I have heard outside my window that first night, all night, and during the proceeding days (for now, they have ceased all residential gunfire, for the most part). And aside from the loud gunshots at 1:30 am Thursday morning as they took Modibo Sidibé, the former Prime Minister of Mali who resigned after stealing government funds, and looted his house, located just down the street from our home.

It was almost comical to watch as one of the regular reporters for ORTM, very frazzled, reported on TV on Thursday evening, in an attempt to preserve a sense of normalcy. It was fascinating to see the state of the Malian Presidential palace on TV. It is a mess! Empty bullet shells clutter the ground, windows are shattered, papers everywhere. Yikes, but still kind of cool. And I enjoy watching the military on national TV - they look like a bunch of thugs :)

Not that I haven't been scared or anxious at moments, but I know I am exactly where I am supposed to be and I am safe so I'm making the most of it. But it hasn't been easy. And mom, don't worry, I do understand just how serious the situation is.

I admire Yeah Samaké's determination to serve his country and to lead his country out of ignorance and poverty towards sustained development, good governance, and proper resource management (including human resources). He has the ability to change the lives of millions - I am excited to see what he can do for Mali in the coming months. Watch his most recent interviews on Al Jazeera - you can also see some great footage of the events in Bamako the last few days:

Al-Jazeera: Current Situation in Mali - reaction of a Political Leader

Al-Jazeera Mali Coup d'Etat: Going Forward

This next video is a little longer, and the Skype connection is a little slow at first but Yeah makes some incredible statements about going forward and the potential future of Mali...Check it out!

Vive la démocratie! (Long Live Democracy)

Vive le Mali! (Long Live Mali)

Divisés nous perdons tous! Unis nous gagnons tous! (Divided we all lose! United we all win!)

To read more about what Yeah Samaké is doing in response to the military coup, and how things will continue with the Samake 2012 campaign (we're still going strong), read Marissa's blog: http://firstladymali2012.com/ 
And if you want to help the refugees in the North of Mali, Yeah and his team are raising funds to provide basic necessities to the people. Those interested in doing so through the Samake 2012 campaign may make anonymous donations to a trust that has been set up: Friends of Mali Trust, 472 East 4380 North, Provo, UT 84604.
 
A planned peaceful march for tomorrow morning to the "Hommage aux martyrs," a local monument in honor of the lives lost in the uprisings of 1992, to establish democracy. On Tuesday, the temporary government should announced, hopefully they will reinstate the constitution, and everything should reopen as "normal." All government employees are required to be at work on Tuesday or they will lose their jobs. We'll watch as things unfold - as history unfolds!

I hope and pray that democracy will prevail and Mali can quickly bounce back from the coup.

As for now,

I'm safe. Kyle's safe. We're doing well! 

We are in a safe location, indoors at all times.

Very secure.

Once the airport is reopened (rumor says Tuesday or Wednesday), Kyle and I will be evacuated home, just to ensure safety.

Thank you everyone for all of your love and prayers! I have received countless emails, Facebook messages, and other communication the last few days from loving family and friends. Keep praying that we will return home safely.

{ Waka Waka! This time for Mali, Africa! }

I have so many things to share!

Mali is the second poorest country in the world (ranked closely with many other African nations). About 90% of the population is Muslim. The literacy rate is about 47% and unemployment rate is above 30%. The average age is 16 years old. Their leading exports are cotton, iron-ore, and gold. Geographically, they are 65% desert.

Kind of some cool stuff I've learned...there are so many different tribes/orgins/ethnicities here in Mali. I had the most fascinating discussion with one of my co-workers and fellow Samake supports the other day...in french :) The Bambara people make up the majority of Mali - they are the agriculture and farming people...then there's the Fula (or Peul, in French) people - they are the cow, sheep, ranching kind of people...Then there are the Bozo people - they are the fishermen along the Niger river...and lastly, the Dogon people - they live in the plateau region of Mali, their homes built up in the cliffs, and they are known for agriculture as well but they are also very religious and artistic. So, there you have it, the main ethnicities of Malians.

Mali has a strong democracy, with a relatively strong constitution, similar to that of France's, implemented in 1992, but they have stagnated and need a strong leader. Right now, a lot of the people love their current leader, ATT - Amadou Toumani Touré. But he isn't running for reelection (he can't - he's done his 2 terms) and the people desperately need change. They need education.

The Malian people generally make $1.25 a day...often less, sometimes closer to $1.50. The average net income for a person is US $680 a year. Can you even imagine? We squeal if we don't get $8 AN HOUR. The average Malian family is about 5 kids (sometimes more like 2-3 in the younger generations) in the city and about 10 kids in the village. That gets expensive! So, even if both parents are working, they make about $60 a month...And food isn't much cheaper here...in fact, not at all. In India, rice was expensive...but here, it's even more expensive. It costs about $50 for a large bag of rice that would maybe last a month. And another $50 or so for a months worth of oil. And the costs just keep coming...chicken here is rather expensive - about $5 for a chicken - so it's a delicacy even for the families more well-off.

On top of that, they have to pay for education. Well, for ages 7-16 it's free - but not really. Families still have to pay for the cost of supplies and transportation And it's not mandatory. So, if you can save money each month by not sending your kids to school and instead sending them to work, then you might even be able to buy some extra rice. Well, it costs about $1 a month to send a child to school after age 16. If you have 3 kids at that age, and 5 others kids still going but for "free" that's probably about $10 a month...money that the people generally don't have. Therefore, why would you become educated? It's hard to see the long-term benefits when you may have to starve in order to attend school, which doesn't earn you money to feed your hungry belly. Only 61% of children enroll in Primary School (ages 7-13) but only 36% of those that enroll actually finish Primary School. And then only 15% actually enroll in Secondary School (ages 13-19 - 20% males, 10% females)...we couldn't find a number for how many actually finish.

And even to take this a little further, dental hygiene is nearly nonexistent here. Especially for the village families...if you have 10 kids and have to buy them all toothbrushes and toothpaste (which is about $2 a tube which would last maybe 2 weeks?) then, there goes another $5 or so a month! How would the people eat? Starve to brush your teeth? No, that doesn't make sense either. So, here in Mali, some people will chew on a type of tree bark to kind of clean their teeth. In India, the people would chew on neem leaves to kind of clean their teeth and supposedly make their breath smell better.

Interesting, right?

It all starts to make sense...

Now, what can you do to change the lives of these people? How can you help? Maybe help them to elect a President who will require education? Promote a leader who will make a way to pay for the families, even subsidize the families, to send their children to school? Campaigns are costly...I'm proud to be working for Monsieur Yeah Samake, the future President of Mali. He is the change that Mali...no, Africa...needs to move towards a new phase of development, and a better future for the lives of millions of children.

Stay tuned for some PICTURES! And get ready to learn some Bambara!!!

{ My Everyday: Indian style }

Everyday, we are greeted at Maitri with a sweet smile and hug from our best friend, Anita-ji. 

Everyday, we say "Namaste Mintu!" to one of the baiyyas as we walk in and he gives us this big grin and says, "Hiiiiyah" (that's just what it sounds like :))

Everyday, I wake up filled with gratitude for the opportunity to live and love India.

Everyday, I worry that I might be hit by a car. And I usually am...jostled a little here and there between cars...

Everyday, I kind of wonder if we will be going to the hospital that day...

Everyday, I see children begging on the streets and I fill love and worry swell in my breasts, a deep emotion for their suffering and everyday hardships.

Everyday, I hear a local man calling out in Hindi, "Fruits and Vegetables!" But it sounds like he's chanting.

Everyday, I wake up to the sound of prayers being chanted at a local temple.

Everyday, I hear some kind of bollywood song from the window of an I-like-to-drive-fast-and-wreckless car.

Everyday, I see another beautiful saree (and I usually want it).

Everyday, I hear the doorbell ring 4 or so times at about 9:00 am as our sweet Laxmi arrives to make us breakfast.

Everyday, we have to wait for one of the roomies to get to the elevator as we run out the door for work (yes, sometimes it's me haha).

Everyday, we are stared at by the Indian men as we walk to work.

Everyday, someone tries to tell me what to do or where to go...and they just have no idea who I am.

Every once in a while (too often), I am called Ms. India, Ms. Universe, or Ms. World - will someone please tell me who I look like and why everyone in India is calling me this?

Everyday, we deal with or do something to prevent an upset tummy.

Everyday, Sarah changes her outfit at least 4 times...and then cocks her head to the left as she admires views herself in the mirror...

Everyday, when I blow my nose, I find a large pile of black snaught - gross, I know.

Everyday when I scratch my ear, my nail is filled with black wax and dirt. 

Everyday, I breathe the dirty pollution of disgusting Delhi.

Everyday, I fight a battle against awful blemishes and acne from the dirtiness and pollution of Delhi (I have very sensitive skin!)

Everyday, I wake up and run in the park outside our community or do yoga in the park in the center of our community. 

Everyday, I see a rat run from the kitchen to my bedroom and into the bathroom (yeah and we saw the rat on our counter...gross).

Everyday, I walk past a homeless man by the overpass, seated by his shrine as he begs for money.

Everyday (almost), we buy a treat from the little market by our office.

This is my everyday. My beautiful, interesting, simple life in India.

That's one thing I've learned about India...how to simplify. But I'm still kind of working on it... (hence the reason I have 3 bags to fly home!)

I have the most amazing intellectual, spiritual, mental, etc. conversations with my roommates.

I love love love my life here in India! Here are a few of our everyday moments from the last little while...

This is the park where I run/jog/lung/jump jacks every morning...love my little park.

And this is what I see everyday on my walk to work...

A little market by our organization.

The alleyways to work.

One of our favorite upstairs markets.

And another little market..I could get almost a million bags of Lays chips on my way to work alone!

This is a neighborhood (Sector 13 Anant Ram Dairy) birth ceremony as they marched around the sector playing their drums and with an altar...quite fascinating! We've seen quite a few birth, death, and wedding ceremonies around the neighborhoods in the past few months!

And then we've had a couple of "everyday" (or rather, too often) little hospital mishaps...

Katie got caught in the hospital for a few days...poor girl! 

Sleeping cats on a couch :)

We loved our LDS branch in New Delhi!

Sarees at Church :) Love it!

I love love love the branch here - all of the members are incredible!

The young woman in our branch are the sweetest girls I have ever met! I love each one of them. They are all so beautiful!

Pose it, girls!

Halloween in India...

Witches hats from the local market...we were just happy to have something!

a couple of sweets from the Surpeme bakery (pretty yummy...not like home, though).

And an attempt at a Halloween costume.

Oh and you can't forget the street-infested candy bars!

Random runs to the market for lunch...

Sarah got a cake for the market...they thought it was her birthday. Love the language barrier! haha

Lots of little parties at the office...usually go-away parties... :/

Coworkers coming and going from the office...this is the sweet teacher that teaches the children

downstairs and she was leaving to go to Bangalore.

The day one of our good friends, Ameen, left the office. We missed him!

Katie and Ameen - best friends!

Interns with Ameen...we got along almost too well. So much fun together.

Maitri coworkers.

Celebration for Mr. Mathur's birthday!

And just beautiful, simple everyday life :)

Sarah got postcards from Finland! We love mail!

Playing with our sweet Laxmi-ji - she looked so pregnant this day so we had to get some photos! 

Look how cute my mommy is :) I LOVE this woman!

Dominos pizza parties...our favorite.

Hippo treats...these are an Indian thing...

Even cooler, the Hippo treats help fight hunger by donating some of their funds to a good cause! Pretty cool, right? 

So excited!

A package from Katie's best friend...with CLEAN, AMERICAN-SMELLING clothes!!!

Freakout sesh :)

Sometimes, we try to buy our plane tickets at the same time so we all get seats by each other :) This is us purchasing our airfare to Goa and Mumbai...too fun!

And we found GOOD Kit-Kats :) They didn't taste like the street!

Sometimes, we go the movies... :) Like Breaking Dawn - we just HAD to see it!

Sunday primary program with the cute little Indian kids :) BEST.

I met up with Elder Randall at the church one day...we went to high school together - how fun!

Church in a saree is the best, most modest way to go :) (As long as you wear something to cover your stomach haha)

This is how they decorate their cars for weddings in India...isn't it pretty? Why in the world do we destroy cars when people are married in America?

Laxmi is from Kolkutta (Eastern India) and they have a tradition with this red dye called "Sindhu" or "Alta" where they decorate women's feet like this (see below) when they're married - interesting!

We came across a Hindu temple in the local market...crazy! They're everywhere but we were surprised to see one in the middle of the market.

These are beautiful, traditional Indian flowers :) Often people give these flowers to the Gods in the temples or the Gods give flowers like these to people or people use them to welcome people to India, etc. They're just pretty :) I love marigolds.

Once upon a time, we found an American-like, yummy Crepe restaurant - better than France? Not really but close!

Yummy chocolate banana crepe :)

Shopping for cloth for a salwar kameez (Indian suit) at the local market - crazy shopping day! Indian has such an incredible variety of fabrics and colors!

We had to place these little guys (statues) by our bathroom door, that leads to the balcony, in front of the towel so that the mice/rats couldn't run back and forth between the balcony in the bathroom and the kitchen...oh boy! Living with a family of rats was an adventure. I don't miss them.

One day, we went to a very touristy, beautiful, clean market called Dilli Haat. It was a celebration day for West Bengal!

Outside the market...Indians sure know how to create art!

I love these little Elephants...my favorite gift to bring home :) Beautiful! Hand-painted and everything.

And we saw lots of traditional Indian dancing at the market that day! I love traditional Indian dance and music.

Often, we take little adventures to our friend's homes to have dinner and enjoy some good, Indian company :) 

On this particular adventure, Katie and I (Sarah was sick) took a bus to the metro, then rode the metro 14 STOPS (it was an hour long ride standing with lots of heavy baggage...) to our friend, Shika's, house. It was a fun night! Her family spoiled us! They watched us, took pictures, and filmed as we ate and relished their food (it was so yummy!) and looked through wedding albums, etc.

It was a fun night!

Shika's family - they loved us!

Shikha's father!

Some of the best food...BEST. Okay, there was a lot of BEST food nights :)

Shikha pretty much lives in a mansion...her home is so nice! Beautiful!

We invited ourselves over on a Sunday evening to one of our best friend's, Shyam's, home. It was so much fun! We love his little brother&hero, Rakshit (yes, it's said rock-shit hahaha we felt awkward saying it at first ;))

This is little Rakshit...he's so darling! Love him as my own.

Our little group - Shyam, Rajni (good friend from ward :)), Me, Sarah, Rakshit, Katie, Shyam's mom, and in front, his two gorgeous little sisters - I love his family!

This is Shyam's home. He is a humble, sweet guy. 

Then, one time, we visited a friend's emporium...but a beautiful one at that! We usually stay away from bazars and emporiums but, we were invited for a free lunch and the guy that owns the emporium, we met him at Maitri's Golf Tournament and he was so nice to us. So we went. And it was gooooood.

We found us some magic carpets! :) Photo courtesy of SarahSioux

Carpets all around...handmade - they're so beautiful! We were captivated.

This is kind of how they make carpets...one little string at a time and as they tie and add the strings, they push the strings down hard with this little tool - it's insane!

I decided to buy one for my mom for Christmas...it was so hard to decide! These are the ones I chose from - I ended up buying the one on the top left. It's Kashmiri Silk and of the Tree of Life :)

The most amaaaazing Kashmiri food and Indian food we ate in India (we say that every time) - so yummy! And we got some chicken and mutton. We missed meat - real protein.

This guy has sold rugs to Clinton and decorated his home. He met Hilary Clinton too. Each year he provides thousands of rugs for U.S. Embassies around the world...amazing!

We also made a fun visit to our Branch President's home, the Cleggs. It felt like we were in AMERICA again. Chili, Christmas trees, clean floors (or rather, a floor that wasnt dirt), a normal good-sized kitchen, sweet, white people, etc. Don't get me wrong, we LOVE India but...it was a fun diversion from our everyday reality. We also spent some fun time with their adorable little girls - barbies, jumping on the tramp, playing with their doggie, etc. They made us feel at home again. It was the best night.

Their adorable little girl, Mia, look at those eyes!!! 

Hanging with the Cleggs...finally felt like Christmas! Sarah, me, Davvy Clegg, President Clegg and his sweet wife, Lora.

We love our very blessed, beautiful, everyday life here in India :)